Scarpa Feroce Review

COMPLETE REVIEW OF SCARPA FEROCE

The Scarpa Feroce holds the ground very well. You feel safe standing even on the smallest of surfaces. The rubber on the heel and on the toe is perfectly placed. This makes the Feroce rank as one of the top shoes among the ones I’ve tested in terms of toe-hooking and heel-hooking.

Pros

Cons

Too stiff for ultra-thin cracks or climbing gyms.

People with narrower feet may find it unsuitable.

Smearing of Scarpa Feroce

The design of the Feroce makes it an amazing smearing shoe. I’ve used on the most oil-slick, surfaces and I’ve felt confident enough.

Pockets of Scarpa Feroce

Pocket climbing is made easier with its pointy toe. Even if the pocket is tiny, the Feroce’s smearing mastery comes in handy and you can hold them. It’s surprising how a shoe this stiff has such capabilities.

Cracks

The Feroce isn’t specifically for crack climbing. However, its effective smearing capability makes it a great crack-climbing shoe on granite. It is not suitable for Indian Creek crack-climbing since the Velcro straps can be ruined in desert areas.

Comfort

If you have wide foot, give this shoe a go. It really surprises you with the comfort and painless climbing it offers. It has performed really well for me.

Value/Longevity

Although Vibram XS Grip 2 is more vulnerable to wear and tear than other rubbers, it’s softer and performs better. Moreover, The Velcro straps have withheld deserts. The shape hasn’t been ruined as well.

You can secure your feet even on the smallest of holds. The show is comfortable enough to be trusted for cracks or limestone. I consider this shoe one of the most reliable. The great heel holds edges very effectively.

Use: Extreme boulders or sport projects, cracks (thin to wide ones)

Price Paid: 95 Euros

Weight

Feroce is heavier than 5-10s or La Sportivas, which probably give a better toe action and durability. I really don’t like the ridges placed on the heel, which I believe have no use except maybe for looks. They are useless on a sloped heel hook.

The rubber on the toe really hinders you toe-hooking. Moreover, It’s been 3 months since I’m using this shoe and the toe rubber is coming off a little. However, the toe rubber is somewhat holding up after I’ve used it 2-4 times a week. They still fit very well and break in enough to be comfortable.

I had used the Sportiva Katanas before getting these. I really liked how easy it was to pull with the Feroce shoes. Another noticeable feature is the unusual lump beneath my big toe for better grip. I initially felt uneasy because of it but now I have gotten used to it.

One of the reasons the shoe is amazing is that it incorporates great amount of sticky rubber. The heel features a rubber catching rail and is quite different from a standard heel in that it may slide off suddenly, which is unfortunate. I usually wear this shoe while bouldering but it works great at other sports too. What I haven’t tried it on is crack climbing, which it is claimed to be great at. It’s great with slabs too and even greater on vertical.

The Scarpa Feroce is an all-purpose which has amazing rubber incorporated and is the go-to when it comes to steep climbing or edges.

Materials: Vibram XS

Use: bouldering, sporting routes, crack-climbing

Break-in Period: 3 weeks

Price Paid: 220 Australian Dollars

Final Verdict

The Scarpa Feroce is a multi-purpose shoe designed for climbers with larger feet. The Vibram XS Grip 2 rubber adheres nicely and lasts a long time. The Suede/Lorica upper keeps the shoe’s form, and the comfort level improves with time. The Feroce’s slightly down-turned toe, along with its incredible smearing ability, allows it to tackle 5.10 slabs, 5.11 cracks, and 5.14 overhanging sport routes.